Email:
info@fixiz.co.uk
Physical address:
128 City Road, EC1V 2NX, London,UK
Frequently Asked Questions
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“Our Mission: Delivering Quality Property Maintenance Services”
Javier Vazquez
Founder
F.A.Qs
Electrical Services
A: Yes, you can either provide us with a list of materials (if you have one), or the electrician can supply those after an on-site visit. However, these materials are not included in the service price.
A: Some of the warning signs you should pay attention to include a persistent burning smell, loose connections in the outlets, dimming or flickering lights, visible poor condition of the wiring (especially valid for older properties) and many others. If you suspect that the existing wiring is hazardous, the best action would be to call a certified electrician in your area to perform a thorough home safety inspection.
A: We’ll try our best to send a professional as soon as possible. Usually, you can make an appointment for the same day, including Saturday & Sunday (subject to availability).
All our work carries a one-year warranty on parts and workmanship. Work is also covered by NICEIC insurance to give you additional peace of mind.
Landlord Certificate
A: a valid EPC to the person who ultimately becomes the buyer or tenant. give an EPC to the owner of the building not more than five days after the work has been completed.
A: An EPC is valid for 10 years or until a newer EPC is produced for the same building no matter how many times the property is sold or rented out during that period. Existing occupiers and tenants will not require an EPC unless they sell, assign or sublet their interest in a building.
A: Yes. It is a legal requirement to have a valid EPC for a property when marketing for sales and/or lettings.
A: You can be fined if you do not get an EPC when you need one. The person selling the house, the landlord or the letting agent must show you the EPC if you’re buying or renting.
A: You cannot issue an EPC yourself and you might be offered the services via an estate or letting agent, however to get the best EPC cost, make sure you get the assessment completed directly.
A: You don’t need an Energy Performance Certificate ( EPC ) if you can demonstrate that the building is any of these: listed or officially protected and the minimum energy performance requirements would unacceptably alter it. a temporary building only going to be used for 2 years or less.
A: An EPC is required when a building is constructed, rented or sold. A building will need an EPC if it has a roof and walls and has heating, air conditioning or mechanical ventilation. A garden shed, garage or old barn would not need an EPC if it doesn’t use energy to heat it up or cool it down.
Fire Door Inspection
Our 30 minute fire doors (FD30) are 44mm thick
Our 60 minute fire doors (FD60) are 54mm thick
The amount that can be removed from the edges of a fire door differs from one door to the next and depends on several factors, including the exact materials used during construction and guidelines from the fire rating certificate. Accurate trimming information can only be provided by the manufacturer on a case-by-case basis after the door has been completed.
There are no set rules that detail how long a fire door lasts before it needs to be replaced.
The condition of the door should be monitored and checked at least every 6 months to ensure it is in good working order. Fire doors should comply with the latest fire door regulations and so it is important to keep up to date with any changes in regulations which may mean your doors are no longer fit for purpose.
All our fire doors satisfy the DDA regulations.
In order to calculate the weight of a fire door you will need to know the weight per square meter (kg/m2) of the doors core.
This is determined using the thickness of the door as follows: 44mm = 55kg 54mm = 75kg The calculation below can be used to determine the approximate weight of the fire door. Please note that the calculation does not take glass weight into account. Width X height X thickness X kg/m2 of the door’s core = Weight of fire door. For example for a door that was 926x2040mm with a thickness of 44mm the following calculation would give an approximate weight: 0.926 X 2.040 X 0.44 X 55 = 45 KG.
Yes, fire door seals can be fitted to either the door or the frame Double doors or door and a half fire doors will need to have fire door seals fitted to the door to ensure that the gap between each leaf is taken into consideration.
Regulations state that fire doors should self-close completely and reliably. They do not however need to bang or slam shut. The reason for the slamming is usually due to the fire door closer having an incorrect closing speed or power size. Many self-closing devices can be adjusted so that the door will close correctly without slamming shut.
Other issues including a loss of fluid or improper fitting could be causing the issue. It is also possible to fit self-closing devices with a latching action which close the door quickly at first and then stop it from slamming by closing the last few inches slowly.
It is advisable to have your fire door closer maintained and altered by a competent person.
BWF-Certifire have created a guide on how to ensure you retain your Fire Door Certification when considering making alterations.
The closing force rating of fire door closers, also called “power size”, relates to the maximum width and weight of fire doors that the door closer can reliably close and hold closed.
Whilst it is possible to fit self closing hinges to a fire door, Safelincs does not recommend their use as they slam the door quickly.
Fire doors should never be propped or wedged open as the fire door would not be able to close in the event of a fire.
A safe and legal solution to holding open fire doors is to install a fire door holder also known as a retainer. Fire door retainers can be easily installed onto existing doors and allow the door to be held open at any angle.
They comply with regulations because when the fire alarm sounds, the door retainer releases the fire door to close, preventing the spread of fire. Fire doors should never be propped or wedged open to improve ventilation.
Cutting the bottom off a fire door could threaten the integrity of your fire door and could put lives at risk.
If you need to increase air circulation in your building the best option is to hold your fire door open with a fire door holder or free-swing door closer.
These are legal solutions that enable a fire door to be left open but will activate the automatic closing of the fire door on the sounding of fire alarm, preventing the spread of smoke and fire.
Yes, in some cases you can make alterations to your fire door, however these alterations can only be done if they remain within the scope of the fire door’s Certifire Approal documents.
For example when a fire rated door viewer or intumescent letterbox / letter plate is required. This information should also be detailed in the installation and maintenance instructions supplied with each door leaf. It is critical that any changes made to a fire door is done so following the manufacturer’s instructions, by a trained professional, and with certified hardware to ensure that the performance of the door, and it’s associated certification, is not compromised.
BWF-Certifire have created a guide on how to ensure you retain your Fire Door Certification when considering making alterations.
Yes, intumescent fire seals are required on all fire doors. Newer doors and frames have a channel cut into them for rebated seals (if not supplied with seals already in place). For older doors, surface-mounted seals can be used instead.
Please note: some of our seals have brushes on them, which are designed to block the spread of smoke around the door before ambient heat has caused the intumescent seals to expand and fill any gaps – these are usually required on doors, so make sure a competent person has performed the appropriate fire risk assessments or fire door inspections before purchasing.
BWF-Certifire have created a guide on how to ensure you retain your Fire Door Certification when considering making alterations.
Fire doors must be used in walls which form the compartmentation of the premises – specific areas within the building that are constructed to be fire-resistant.
These may be individual rooms, but could also contain multiple rooms or might be vertical risers and lift shafts.
Fire-rated doors are not required for walls not part of a compartment boundary. Additional fire doors can be installed in place of normal doors, but they would provide minimal protection as the walls around them may not be constructed of especially fire-resistant materials and could burn through while the fire door remains intact.
There is a risk of occupants gaining a false sense of security if fire doors are installed in non-compartment walls, so this should only be done under the guidance of a proper fire risk assessment conducted by a competent person.
Please consult the original building plans, if available, to determine where your premises’ fire compartments are, or otherwise have a competent person perform a fire risk assessment or fire door inspection.
BWF-Certifire have created a guide on how to ensure you retain your Fire Door Certification when considering making alterations.
Fire Risk Assessment
A: A careful look at your premises and the people who use them, from a fire prevention perspective. It’s about understanding the potential risks, then improving your fire safety precautions to keep people safe.
A: The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 requires the Responsible Person to develop general fire precautions for their premises, including the provision of a fire risk assessment. The fire risk assessment should consider all aspects of fire within the premises and set out what should be done to keep people safe.
Fire risk assessments are not just a legal requirement, they can be time consuming, complex, often require specialist knowledge and opinion; so we understand it can be a difficult task to get right and properly maintain.
A: Companies should review their risk assessments and risk management practices once every 3 years, or: Whenever there to any significant changes to workplace processes or design. Whenever new machinery, substances or procedures are introduced.
A: Fire Risk Assessment is a legal requirement. If you are responsible for a building, for example a employer, owner or occupier of premises that aren’t a ‘single private dwelling’ (a private home), you need to make sure a suitably competent person completes a Fire Risk Assessment.
A: Is there a requirement for a landlord fire risk assessment? Yes, legislation requires that a fire risk assessment is carried out in all areas of the landlord’s properties. This process will identify any fire hazards and who is at risk and decide if anything needs to be done to remove or reduce that risk.
A: An owner of the company is responsible for completing a fire risk assessment, too. Others who are responsible include landlords, as well as an occupier. If a person has control of the premise, then they are the ones responsible for carrying out an assessment.
A: Fire risk assessments
- Identify the fire hazards.
- Identify people at risk.
- Evaluate, remove or reduce the risks.
- Record your findings, prepare an emergency plan and provide training.
- Review and update the fire risk assessment regularly.
Handyman Services
A: No worries there, your Handymen will bring all the necessary tools and equipment for the job.
A: This service is hourly based. The minimum charge is 1 hour per appointment. After the first hour, we charge on a half-hour basis. You only pay for the actual time spent on-site and for the job to be completed to your satisfaction.
A: Yes , All the Handymen works are guaranteed and insurance cover.
A: Every handyman brings a small amount of screws, wall plugs, white paint, white silicone, etc with him. If the handyman uses a small amount from the materials, we won’t add them to the total service cost.
For everything else – replacement parts, different colour of paint/silicone, a whole tube of silicone, a can of paint – please advise your customer agent as the technician should source them in advance. The price for those materials will be added to the final bill.
Loft Conversions, Garage Conversions & House Extensions
A: Most loft conversions fall under Permitted Development rights, meaning no planning permission is needed. However, if you live in a Conservation Area, have an Article 4 Direction, or the property is a flat, full planning permission may be required. We always check your specific borough rules before starting.
A: Costs typically range from £35,000 to £120,000+ depending on the type and finish. A basic rooflight conversion starts around £35,000-£45,000, while a dormer or mansard can reach £60,000-£120,000. We provide a full itemised quote before any work begins.
A: We build all types: rooflight/Velux, dormer, hip-to-gable, mansard, and L-shaped dormers. Our team will recommend the best type based on your roof pitch, headroom, and planning constraints.
A: The key requirement is a minimum ridge height of around 2.2 metres. We offer a free initial assessment to check your roof pitch, structural condition, and headroom before recommending any design.
A: A standard dormer loft conversion typically takes 8-12 weeks. More complex mansard or L-shaped conversions can take 12-16 weeks. We provide a clear project timeline before work begins.
A: In most cases, no. Loft conversions are designed to be carried out with minimal disruption. You can usually remain in the property throughout the build.
A: All loft conversions must comply with building regulations covering structural integrity, fire safety (including escape windows and fire doors), insulation, electrics, and staircases. Fixiz works with approved building control to ensure full compliance and a completion certificate.
A: If your property shares a wall with a neighbour, you may need to serve a Party Wall Notice before starting work. This is a legal requirement under the Party Wall Act 1996. We advise you early in the process and can recommend a Party Wall Surveyor.
A: Yes – loft conversions are consistently ranked among the highest-value home improvements in the UK, often adding 15-25% to a property’s value. A well-finished bedroom with en-suite can be particularly impactful.
A: Yes. We regularly install en-suite bathrooms and shower rooms within loft conversions. This requires careful planning for plumbing runs, drainage, and ventilation, all of which we handle.
A: A dormer adds a box-shaped protrusion to the existing roof slope, while a mansard involves rebuilding the entire rear roof slope at a near-vertical angle, maximising space. Mansards require planning permission and are more expensive but add the most room.
A: Yes. A structural engineer must assess the existing floor joists and roof structure to ensure they can bear the new loads. This is required for building regulations sign-off, and Fixiz arranges this as part of the process.
A: Absolutely. A loft bedroom is the most popular use. It must meet building regulations for minimum headroom (1.9m over at least part of the floor), fire safety, natural light, and ventilation.
A: A Lawful Development Certificate (LDC) confirms your conversion is lawful under Permitted Development. While not always mandatory, it protects you when selling the property. Fixiz recommends obtaining one.
A: A dedicated staircase is required by building regulations. We design it to fit your existing layout as efficiently as possible – often utilising space above a hallway or existing stairwell. The minimum headroom over stairs is 1.9m.
A: Yes. Semi-detached homes are very common loft conversion candidates, often using a hip-to-gable design combined with a rear dormer to maximise floor space. Party Wall Notices are typically required.
A: If work involves a shared (party) wall, you are legally required to serve a Party Wall Notice. Even where not legally required, we recommend informing neighbours as a courtesy to avoid disputes.
A: We use a combination of rigid insulation boards between and below rafters, achieving compliance with current building regulations (minimum U-value of 0.18 W/m2K for roofs). This keeps the space warm in winter and cool in summer.
A: Garage conversions typically cost between £10,000 and £30,000 depending on size, finish, and the intended use. Converting to a habitable room with insulation, plastering, electrics, and flooring is the most common scope.
A: In most cases, internal garage conversions fall under Permitted Development. However, permission is needed if you live in a Conservation Area, if the conversion involves significant external changes, or if parking standards require you to maintain a garage space.
A: Some London boroughs require a minimum number of off-street parking spaces. If your garage is the only provision, you may need to demonstrate that adequate parking exists on-street or elsewhere. We assess this as part of your project.
A: Popular uses include a home office, gym, playroom, extra bedroom, utility room, or even a self-contained studio. We design the space around your specific needs and lifestyle.
A: Yes – a well-executed garage conversion can add up to 20% to a property’s value, particularly when it adds a usable bedroom or office.
A: Most standard garage conversions take 3-6 weeks. This includes insulation, new flooring, plastering, electrics, and windows or doors. More complex conversions with plumbing may take longer.
A: Yes, all garage conversions to habitable space require building regulations approval covering insulation, damp-proofing, structural floors, ventilation, electrics, and fire safety. Fixiz manages the full building control process for you.
A: House extensions in London typically cost £2,000-£4,500+ per m2 depending on specification. A 20m2 rear extension can range from £40,000 to £90,000+. We provide detailed quotes and transparent breakdowns.
A: Many single-storey rear extensions under 3m (semi-detached) or 4m (detached) can be built under Permitted Development. Larger or side extensions, second-storey additions, and properties in Conservation Areas will need full planning permission.
A: A standard single-storey rear extension takes 10-14 weeks on site. Double-storey or more complex extensions may take 16-24 weeks. We include planning and design time in the overall project plan.
A: For extensions between 3m-6m (semi/terraced) or 4m-8m (detached) depth under Prior Approval, neighbours are consulted and can raise objections. Fixiz manages this notification process on your behalf.
A: Yes. We offer a complete turnkey service including initial feasibility, architectural drawings, planning applications, building regulations, structural engineering, construction, and final sign-off – all managed by one point of contact.
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